The most common rose bush diseases are black spot, powdery mildew, rust on roses and rose balling.
This is a quick and easy guide to treating rose diseases and also tips for preventing them from infecting your rose bushes.
A little watchfulness on your part, and simple early treatment can go a long way toward keeping rose bush diseases at bay and your garden disease free.
Make it a routine to walk your garden and checking your rose plant for any signs of disease or pests daily.
This way you will have a small problem to fix rather than a big disease problem.
I also recommend you have on hand some products that you can use right away if you detect black spot for example.
So visit your garden center and buy some products for the most common diseases of roses. Bayer's rose care products are very good. .
These fungus type of rose bush diseases are easy to detect and it doesn't take much time to defeat.
Black spot spores travel in the air or on surfaces that brush infected leaves.
Spores can also spread via water spray, such as overhead sprinklers.
Fungal spores can survive the winter in the soil, so it's important to treat the canes and the soil with a dormant oil during the winter and before snow comes.
What is black spot? Black spot is one of the three major rose bush diseases that affect roses.
It appears in the form of black patches on leaves or/and canes and thrives in humid climates.
The first signs of this fungus are pinhead-sized black dots on rose leaves and/or black spots on the canes.
As the black spots grow, they are surrounded by a yellow halo of dying leaf tissue.
You should check your roses often, a couple of times a week for sure, so you can take action before the disease advances.
How to treat black spot: treating blackspot is an easy but an ongoing process.
There are three stages of defense: early prevention, quick treatment of small outbreaks and regular treatments for larger or recurrent infestations of black spot.
Prevention involves spraying your roses with one part lime to nine parts of wettable sulfur in winter, and you must monitor your roses as soon as they show signs of new growth.
Remove infected leaves and throw them away.If a black spot infection sets in, begin weekly fungicide applications.Benomyl and Daconil are two of the most effective fungicides.
Preventing black spot: Black spot is most common in humid climates, so select rose varieties that are known to be resistant to black spot.
Spraying roses with a liquid sulfur mix often prevents black spot. Begin regular applications in the early winter months when the roses are dormant.
You can also dust with straight sulfur as a preventative measure.
It's easily identified by the way it covers new growth with its white mycelium. I just hate how it makes rose bushes look ugly.
Older leaves are more resistant to mildew, but the young growth, including buds and pecticels, can become distorted and stunted.
This rose bush disease is spread by by spores in the wind. And if you let the plants roots dry out and don't water the rose bush enough, your roses are much more likely to suffer from powdery mildew.
Poor air circulation and cool, wet weather are also contributing factors for this rose bush disease.
The disease spreads fast and is very unattractive but its rarely fatal.
Fungicidal sprays are the usual remedy, but prevention is better still.
Rust is another serious fungal infection of roses, and the only one where there is danger that the rose bush may die.
Rust is easily identified by bright orange pustales on both sides of the leaves, and spreading to other parts of the plant. But it seems it usually first appears on the undersides of leaves, so always check under the leaves.
It's most common in cool, damp climates, and it's hard to combat because it overwinters as spores on fallen leaves, in the soil, and on other plants.
Chemical controls is the only way to effectively prevent rust, and most rose nurseries spray with a systemic fungicide early in the season.
I have been using Bayer All in One Rose and Flower Care with great results, and my web site visitors are telling me the same.
You don't spray when using this product, but simply mix it with water in a bucket and pour it around the roses 3 times during the season.
It's most effective if you apply the first dose right after pruning.
It's an old and perplexing problem for rose lovers all over the world.
Not as common as black spot or mildew, but it affects the rose flowers directly.
It's caused by a form of Botrytis cinerea, which is usually not a serious pest of roses, but can develop in cool, damp conditions.
Most rose gardeners are unaware of its presence until the damage is done.
Balling affects the blooms as they prepare to open. The buds appear to be ready to open, but fail to expand and eventually rots and drop off.
This mostly happens to roses with many thin petals, especially some of the older antique roses, however most modern roses have thick, sturdy petals and are much less troubled by balling.
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent the rose balling from happening. If it's a re-occuring problem for a rose, I recommend you just dig the rose up and discard it, and replace it with a rose that isn't affected by balling.